Its always best to get professionally fitted.  You have a high SS and a fitting will save you a ton in the long run from experimenting with shafts.  I was just fitted for a driver shaft and we were able to lower the spin by 1500+ rpm.  I live in TX where there is plenty of 25+ MPH wind days.  Finally, no more balloon balls.  Its worth the money and better than burning through a $200 shaft.  

I live in South Florida so you know the wind in a pain in the you know what. I have a v2 in my 3 wood and it hits bullets all day long. My 3 wood is a 906 F2. I just wonder since its a bore through that the 76g x flex in that 3 wood just plays stiffer.  So that's why I am thinking about tipping it.  I was just curious as to what will make that shaft calm the ballooning of shots into the wind. Whether it be a heavier shaft or tipping the 66g.  Also I'm going for a fitting in a few weeks but I know I'll probably be fit Into a Diamana. I tend to play those shafts very well ( kai'li and Whiteboard).   I'll end up buying a whiteboard I'm sure. But in the meantime I need to fix the shaft I have. 

Although I have a post floating, I am pleased to let one know that I shortened my driver to 44.5" (had been using one of that length until 2011 and was adamant about shortening my Burner HT Draw from 45" because it would have dropped the swingweight to about C8; Winn Lite Dri Tac made it a non-issue).   I took it to the range and found that I could swing away and hit it totally dead straight by choking down slightly.  

To amplify the reason for shortening, I recently shortened my 5W and 4H (Superfast 1.0) by 1/2" from stock (the swingweight was D7 with the Dri Tac Lite before and now is D4) and the results were tremendous (they are like cannons now and I hit the 4H just as far as my old 7 wood).  I took the 5W to the park the other day and hit a shot from my known distance and it ended up in a 12 foot circle surrounded by a sidewalk (the mound at the park is similar to a green on the golf course and has a figure 8 sidewalk, shapewise and I use it for a lot of approach shot practice).   I was also hitting a bit of a block with both clubs and now they are dead straight.

For me, a mid tip works fine.  In 2007, I had a Cobra X Speed driver and 975F woods (16.5 and 20.5; all 3 were a gift from Dad for the Big Five Zero) with Pro Force ATR stiff and my biggest complaint was the trajectory on all three was way too high (they ballooned) even for stiff shafts.  I went to a Grafalloy Pro Custom regular on the driver and got a lower ball flight with about 20 yards more distance.   I reshafted the 975Fs to DG R300 and they served me well for 3 years (distance wasn't tremendous and they weren't the most forgiving but they put the ball down the center).   I also had a 980 F 3W and 5W through 2010 (both 1/2" shorter than stock) and could crush them on the fairway but they tended to hit high off the tee - they also tended to fade if I got a bit "anxious" and swung away.  I also had a 975F with a Proforce 65 stiff and firm tip - nice trajectory, super consistent but distance not so great (barely got 220 out of it; compare this to my HT draw that I recently hit over 270 yards with an A flex, albeit stiffened by the shortness, shaft).

I agree with Ken that you need to have it fitted.   That includes length and it may be a simple adjustment. 

Theoretically, too long of a club will cause a pull or hook and too short of a club will cause a push or slice.  However, compensating for club length causes the opposite (standing too upright for a long club causes a push slice or block because the ball impacts closer to the heel and standing too flat on a short club causes a pull-hook because the impact is closer to the toe).